I have a box with many large-capacity harddrives and I'm running Windows 10 (I might be from the future and I'm getting a message from myself telling me that Windows 10 is now passe; what are ya going to do, right?). At least three of my large-capacity drives are HIDDEN, meaning that no drive letter is currently assigned to them. All drives on the system show up in Device Manager, even the ones that are only partition stubbs and have never held any data or user-accessible content.
The reason for putting these drives behind the scenes is many fold (ha, "manifold"). The main reason being that the content kept on them is redundant. Which leads me to my question:
When Windows, in general, begins it's reign of supremacy over my UPDATE/UPGRADE schedule, by background loading/downloading/installing then insisting (on whatever final action is necessary to some degree) on displaying the green checkmark, is "it" capable or does it "actually" take a look at those drives that Windows Explorer CAN NOT see (the aforementioned hidden members) to describe some system state and/or take note of drive space on them ... before it begins this tirade of going through the download/install update?
So, I guess I'm also asking whether anyone has ever encountered Windows sacking disc-space on a drive they've deemed non-accessible just for this non-documented behavioral annoyance?
I am finding it hard to find information about escape codes that the camera Canon EOS 2000D would respond to. Usually I connect devices such as a telescope mount through the serial port and I send strings to the mount and so on.
Canon do supply DLL libraries that allow communication with the camera. I am wondering if anyone has experience with this method, more importantly how to connect to the camera Wirelessly.
I also have a Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount that also connects wirelessly and I would like to also control it via my software NTC [network telescope control]. I have the necessary information for the mount, but not with the camera.
Nevertheless, Canon do supply the necessary DLL's. The other problem I have is how to connect to both devices together. One solution I have it to use two repeaters, each connecting to either device. Both repeaters then connect to a hub and my Windows machine plugs into the hub. How the IP addresses work then I don't know.
One customer asked me to replace an HDD in an old computer (robot controller).
Now they have there a 2.5" 60GB HDD ATA-7 HDD plugged using an IDE to ATA-7 converter (the computer have an IDE interface).
Do you think that would work? Is it possible to use a simple conversion device and not needing to install drivers? My plan would be to burn an image of the previous HDD into the new SSD one and plug it.
It should be possible; I have done it recently on two Windows 10 laptops. I used the SSD manufacture's software to copy the image from the hard drive to the SSD. I then swapped devices, powered up, and the system runs fine.
BTW, the link in your signature looks suspiciously like spam. You may wish to remove it.
(Apologies for the repeat --- I posted this in the Lounge yesterday, before someone pointed me to the proper forum)
For those in DIY electronics...
Exactly how good is USB for providing power to a device? I specifically mean devices that are not attached to a computer and use the USB cable strictly for power.
I've long felt that we need a standardized low-voltage DC power source coming right out of our walls, much in the manner that we currently have 120V (or 220V) AC coming out of our walls -- to eliminate the need of all those "brick" power adapters cluttering our power strips. The last time I discussed this publicly (about 10+ years ago), I was scoffed, with the reason being every device uses a different voltage. (I rejected that, as AC devices were able to adapt to use 110V, so DC devices could adapt to use the standardized voltage).
The real problem was that every device used it's own plug size (and selling the proprietary adapter was a profit center). However, now there's some movement to power things with USB cables.
So, the question for the electrically minded here: If all you had available to power your device was an USB cable, would that be viable?
Clocks would be fine, Very small lamps (some LED Only?) and anything bigger than a novelty with a motor or tries to change a temperature will eat more amps than what USB ports deliver or cables are designed to carry.
I encourage you to continue your research though; please review motor home or camper power use - in many cases it's 24V DC and may answer many of your questions for how and what.
Or better yet, invent motors or heating elements that are actually practical and only require < 1 amp and 10V to run- that would make you a fortune!
You've got 4.5 watts. Check the power requirements for your devices. A 4.5 W fan isn't much of a fan. 4.5 W of LED light is bordering on the usable. A plain clock can easily run on 4.5 W, but if you are thinking of one with light and radio to wake you up to and animated display and so on, maybe it will break the power limit. Usually you can find the power consumption on some label.
And then: What you get without negotiation is five volts. If you want to adapt existing electronics, they may be built for two AA batteries, three volts, or for twelve volts. Some are for nine volts. So you will have to add some voltage regulator. Then you might consider adding a chip for USB power negotiation as well, and you will have the option for both higher voltage and higher effect.
I wouldn't have gone for USB as a low-voltage distribution system, though. Specifically: I am not going for it, I go for 12/24 V. I am in the process of stretching cables from the accumulators of my solar panels to sockets "all over the house". I go for far more robust plugs than USB-C; they will be XLR, probably 3-pin with ground, 12V and 24V. Before I start buying the sockets, I will again consider 5-pin, with a pin for 5V. The 12-to-5V converter will be right behind the socket, no 5V cabling, so maybe I rather put that converter outside the wall. I will put together various cables with XLR plugs for the wall side (usually the angled variant so it won't stick too much out), and various plugs / sockets in the other end: The common 12 VDC adapter plugs, the car cigarette lighter socket type etc. You can find most plug/socket types e.g. on Mouser.
At low voltage - definitely at 5V - the current for a given effect is high. The USB wires are thin. The losses are high. You cannot run long cables. That is why I added 24V alongside with 12V - actually, I've got 24V only from the accumulators to each floor, to a 24-to-12V converter. I am careful to minimize cable lengths: A "spine" along the middle wall through the house, fed from the middle. From the spine run "ribs" to the sockets, mostly on the center wall, or in a right angle out to a ceiling lamp. - Yet, I am using 4 sqmm cable for the spine, 2.5 sqmm for the ribs. I do not know the wire gauge used by USB-C, but it is a tiny fraction of this. For the cables, I might use thinner conductors; that depends on length and expected power consumption. Each rib will be protected by a fuse corresponding to the expected power drawn on that rib.
Note that the Wikipedia: USB-C[^] article states (in the Cables section): Cable length should be ≤2 m for Gen 1 or ≤1 m for Gen 2. This is usually good enough for equipment connected to the PC, but rather limiting if you intend to use it as a general power distribution system.
Bonus question: Why??
A couple reasons. We had a period of maybe 20 years with very few power outages - cables and transformers and whathaveyou up to modern standards. Then they started "optimizing", tuning the distribution for the absolute maximum utilization, and nowadays there are more or less zero safety margins. If an electrician sneezes at one power station, the fallout might ripple from one station to the next for twenty or thirty kilometers, maybe more. So the last few years, we have had a greatly increased number of power fallouts, the real cause far away, but the ripples are seemingly impossible to control. I do not want my house to get dark and communication to stop when this happens.
Second: In this country, you cannot do anything yourself on the 230VAC installation. You have to call an electrician for anything beyond replacing a broken fuse. For a 12VDC setup, you can put up a new lamp, or install a new outlet, yourself when you need it, saving at least a hundred Euro, maybe two hundred Euro.
Third: Adding computer control to a low voltage network can be done far more cheaply and easily, and in a far more compact way, than you can with a 230VAC network. And you can do it yourself.
I'm not really sure how to describe this, so bear with me...
I'm having this problem on my development PC.
HP ENVY Desktop - 795-0030 CTO
Intel Core i7-9700
Win 10 Pro
My PC is fairly new, probably a year 1/2 old.
Every few minutes I get what I can only describe as a "pause" that lasts for only a second or two. Everything stops - Mouse, Keyboard, music I'm listening to - everything. If I'm in the middle of typing, the key I last hit repeats across the page until the 'outtage' stops.
I have run the HP diagnostic tools on it and with no issues found. I don't see any problems in Hardware & Device manager, and no OS problems either that I can see. It almost seems like a USB problem, but I don't see anyting to confirm that.
So, I'm open to suggestion on this one.
If it's not broken, fix it until it is.
Everything makes sense in someone's mind.
Ya can't fix stupid.
Last Visit: 31-Dec-99 18:00 Last Update: 27-Jun-22 19:49